Wednesday 26 June 2024

Muchelney Abbey lies hidden away deep in the heart of the Somerset Levels

"The place is not easy to access; one can normally get there in summertime on foot or by horse, but in winter never." 
Monk and historian William of Malmesbury (c1090-1142)


A stone fragment showing a monk carrying loaves of bread in his left arm and a costrel on his right arm - a container used for holding ale. 
The head of a lady - most of the statuary found is incomplete, probably damaged during The Reformation.
The King of Wessex, first established a monastic community at Muchelney in the late seventh century, however, the minster was destroyed during the ninth century by Danes. In 939 the monastery was refounded by King Athelstan and soon adopted Benedictine observance. Starting around 112o the entire monastery was rebuilt on a grand scale with a magnificent church, as well as a cloister, chapter house, dormitory, latrine, refectory and lodging for the abbot. There was also an infirmary, an almonry and agricultural buildings.
The two-storey thatched roof Reredorter (latrine) is a rare survival. The latrines are on the upper floor which was originally adjacent to the Monk's dormitory from where it could be entered. At ground level there are several small arches giving access to the inside drains from the outside for cleaning.
This is the South Cloister Walk - the windows are now partially blocked but fragments of the elaborate stone window tracery, once filled with stained glass, can still be seen. 
Stone stairway to the upper floor.

Although running short of time we are keen to visit the local parish church of St. Peter and St. Paul which is just visible through the right-hand side of this window. 

The church has a wooden, arched, and ribbed ceiling painted during the early part of the c17th. In the centre there are ten angels all wearing Jacobean style dresses along with cherubs painted around the four borders. The painting has a colourful, cartoonish character which creates a dramatic scene viewed from below. Each angel looks out from a frame of thick creamy swirling clouds, a central sun along with stars set in a blue sky all create a celestial backdrop.  

The Angels all hold message banners - 

"All nations of the world" "Praise the Lord" 

"We praise thee oh God"
Some of the angels have immodest necklines, which, it has been suggested, symbolise innocence and purity. However, it is impossible for us today to really know the exact nature or thoughts of those Jacobean patrons and painters.

"From the rising of the sun"
"To the setting of the same" 
We arrived safely at our destination with just sufficient time to refresh before the evening meal. 

22 comments:

  1. Great post. The buildings featured in that area look as if they were grown organically from materials in the ground rather than constructed by human hands giving them a very different, rough appearance. Even evident in the stone stairway. Is it limestone?

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    1. I imagine that it is oolitic limestone which is the same or very similar to what we have here in the Cotswolds. We loved visiting the remains of these beautiful monastic dwellings.

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  2. Dear Rosemary, what a beautiful calm place! I learned so much (and you reminded me of the Danes). Particularly I do love the angels here - do you by chance know their names? (I speak of the two first ones, who are definitely male - the others I am not sure about).
    I wish you a beautiful refreshing stay!

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    1. You pose a very interesting question Britta, and yes, you appear to be are correct, they are male. I am now confused, and wonder if others that read this might come to our aid.

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  3. Loved seeing the monastery and church photos...what a ceiling! So glad you took us along on your visit!

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    1. I am pleased that you enjoyed the visit Barbara.

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  4. Thank you for another wonderful tour Rosemary.

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  5. Amazing paintings Rosemary.
    Those steps, well worn and looking really lovely to me.

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    1. It was a great place to visit Margaret steeped in history.

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  6. I too am wondering about the gender of those angels. Technically and canonically, I believe, angels have no gender but are indeterminate beings. In popular culture, though, they are certainly portrayed as either male or female. So by that era in the church, had popular culture taken over?

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    1. It wasn't until Britta said that the first two angels shown were men that I realised she was correct. We tend to forget that angels are neither male nor female in the human sense, because as you mention they are indeterminate beings. However, I do love the way these particular angels have been depicted along with their celestial environment.

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  7. Hello Rosemary, That top photo with its blocked windows is so evocative and mysterious. Some people take images like that and reconstruct the building's original glory, but ruins (and semi-ruins like this) have their own magic.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim - we first spotted that wall from the distant car park, and its magic certainly drew us in.

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  8. Another wonderful post. I love them.

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    1. Thank you Tom, your comment has made my day - next time you go to Somerset you should definitely visit Muchelney.

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  9. Thank you for sharing these stunning pictures! A place I will never visit and would never have known was there! The ceiling is extraordinary! The detail in your photos is wonderful! Thanks again for your wonderful post!

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    1. Thank you so much Daydreamer, I am very happy to know that you enjoyed the post.

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  10. Muchelney Abbey looks wonderful in such harmony with nature!!
    Excellent photos Rosemary!!
    But also information about this monastery!!
    Thanks for the tour of such a beautiful place!!

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    1. That is the perfection description Katrina - harmony with nature.

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  11. This is a lovely trip, Rosemary. In my country where summer humidity is notorious, ancient stone structures are almost none. I’m always attracted to the stone buildings with these shades of color, which I’ve seen on this blog. I don’t want to fall down that stone stairs but I feel relieved with the handrail. The stone carvings and the painted ceiling of the church are interesting.
    Yoko

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    1. Stone makes excellent buildings - cool in summer, but warm in winter. The stone stairway was very nearly my downfall. I stepped back to let someone come down, and nearly fell as the drop was far bigger than I anticipated. I suspect that the handrail did not exist during the time of the Monks - they must have been sure footed and extremely nibble as all building had an enormous amount of stone steps to negotiate.

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