Friday 2 September 2022

Dore Abbey

It was a dull, grey day, with more than a hint of rain in the air as we set off to spend the day exploring the Golden Valley in Herefordshire. However, the BBC weather forecast assured us that the day would be bright, warm and sunny, and happily they were right.


Our first port of call was Dore Abbey, a place that we were keen to visit having caught a glimpse of it as we drove past years ago. The abbey was founded in 1147 by Cistercian Monks who came over from Morimond Abbey in the Champagne-Ardenne region of France. They seeked seclusion, and founded their houses in wild and remote areas. Dore Abbey's position in the Golden Valley reflects their ideology and aspirations. Now, however, due to the building being almost 900 years old, it requires huge sums of investment in order to keep it maintained. Some young stone masons were carrying out various tasks on the tower when we arrived. They appeared to be checking all of the stonework and mortar then dealing with any problems discovered as they swung to and fro all across the tower.   

The battlement tower that they were repairing was raised after the reformation, giving the building "a touch of England" to an otherwise French exterior.
The pink Herefordshire sandstone edifice seen today is a mere fragment of what the abbey would have originally looked like. After the Reformation the nave was demolished and now just the transepts and the chancel remain. Judging from the scale of the transepts, the nave would appear to have been truly magnificent. The building continues to be used as the local parish church.

I particularly like this eliptical window
Surprisingly the walls inside are all a soft grey limestone, and most of the fittings seen today were added during the first half of the 17th century. The building was rescued by John, Viscount Scudamore, who chose a very talented carpenter, John Abel (1577-1664) to make this wonderful screen. It encloses the congregational area, and is a splendid example of 17th century classicism, heavy, richly Baroque, and dated 1633.
Two contrasting faces seen on the screen - one sad and one happy.
These striking stained glass lancet windows form an attractive backing to the altar. Their delicately coloured glass is particularly pleasing. At the very bottom of the window a date reveals that they were made in 1634.
A post Reformation wall painting portraying a winged "Father Time" carrying his scythe and an hour-glass, representing the passage of time.
In the Ambulatory, a covered passageway around the cloisters at the east end of the church, there is a huge collection of statuary and stonework. This all dates back to the original building having been rediscovered across the years by restorers and archaeologists.
An Abbot with the Virgin and child - this boss has been exhibited in London and Paris. The Abbot is thought to have been Richard Straddell, Dore's most famous abbot. 
A boss representing the Green Man,
and this one a medieval lady.
Having found a shady bench beneath a large tree in the churchyard to have our picnic, it is now time for us to move on to our next two destinations, where we hope to find more treasures. One of which is over 400 years old, very rare, with royal connections. The other is even older - 5,000 years old, but these will have to await the next post.

34 comments:

  1. Dore Abbey looks like a beautiful place. So sad that it isn’t still its original size. Beautiful sculptures are carving. B x

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    1. It was a really enjoyable visit and its situation was delightful.

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  2. I am very glad that these ancient monks sought and found a location that suited them so that you could enjoy it so many years later, Rosemary. I can well imagine that it will require a huge investment to restore it, but perhaps a benevolent philanthropist can be found to foot the bill.

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    1. I do believe that currently they are using Heritage Funding to finance some of the much needed work on the roof. The programme is ongoing over the next three years.

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  3. Dear Rosemary, What a treasure trove. Father Time could have been painted by a student of Italian fresco painting. Looking forward to the next installment.

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    1. We saw some really interesting treasures on that day Gina - more to follow once I get myself sorted.

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  4. Lots of treasures in that church! That wood and wrought iron door rocks.

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    1. I bet that door could tell some tales Debra.

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  5. Loved seeing all this beautiful art and architecture that represented the highest devotions of artists in their practices...though maybe some of it was just good craftsmanship that was paid for by patrons who wanted to go to heaven.

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    1. I am sure that was possibly uppermost in the thoughts and deeds of John, Viscount Scudamore, who funded all of the restoration during the early 17th century.

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  6. How beautiful the stained glass is, Rosemary, and how amazing that it has survived from 1634! I enjoyed seeing all the details in the building - the stone and wood carvings. And then the modern stonemasons checking things out to preserve the past.

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    1. We enjoyed watching the dare-devil pursuits of the stonemasons, as we ate our picnic down below. It seemed a good way to carry out some of the much needed work rather than bringing in tall cranes and heavy machinery to perform the same tasks.

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  7. Such a beautiful place. I am glad it's being maintained.

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  8. Magnificent stained glass and carvings.

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    1. There were so many lovely treasures to see in Dore Abbey and that lovely stained glass window was particularly appealing

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  9. Extraordinary to think of the wonders that were lost during the Reformation when you see this fragmentary gem. Although at least in this instance, a smaller church can be well maintained with the available resources. Thank goodness for masons' dare-devilry!

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    1. Even today little treasures dating back to before the Reformation turn up on a regular basis. Precious objects that were hidden away from view are often found when restorations are taking place.

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  10. Always good to see and hear of the older buildings being restored, the Abbey is lovely inside and somewhat reminds me of the Church of England in Hobart, Tasmania.

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    1. It was fascinating to watch the repairs being carried out by the stonemasons in this way.

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  11. Whoever painted Father Time looks as though he had visited Italy.

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    1. Gina also commented along similar lines - so perhaps you both could be right.

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  12. Such a beautiful place! The carvings are just amazing! Always so nice visiting your blog :)
    Titti

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  13. Dear Rosemary, thank you for presenting this beautiful church! Seeing the first photo I thought: Oh, beautiful, but there will be a lot to be done, repairing-wise" - then I saw the young men climbing and working.
    The Zisterzienser are fascinating - I visited Cluny from which they separated because they found that life too voluptuous. Interesting too that women-cloisters were founded too - in Germany in one were three "mystics".
    I love the picture of the medieval lady - too me she resembles almost a (much later) rococo lady - definitely a French face :-)

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    1. Dear Britta - thank you, I really loved your observations. Out of interest I have just looked up to see how many abbeys the Cistern Monks built across the British Isles and the total is almost 100.
      Now I realise just why that lady is so beautiful - yes, definitely French.

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  14. Thank you, another wonderful piece of history.

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  15. Those young stone masons are brave fellows and have some valuable skills, to restore the building. That photo of the old door is very appealing, thanks for sharing this with us. The stained glass windows are so beautiful and point my thoughts toward God.

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    1. Thank you for your visit - we both really loved our visit to Dore Abbey.

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  16. What an interesting place. Glad you shared it with us.

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    1. Glad you enjoyed coming along with me Latane.

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