Sezincote

Thank you for all your useful comments and advice regarding my computer problems. With help from my computer man and blogging friend Jim, who mentioned that he sometimes uses a different browser for blogger, I remain hopeful that the solution may have been found, and that I can continue to be present here.

A journey along blossoming Cotswold country lanes brought us to Sezincote house and gardens. The house is an extraordinary mixture of both Mughal and classical architecture, together with gardens reminding us of our recent trip to Kashmir. All of this makes it quite unlike any other house and garden to be found in Britain, and it is in fact considered to be the finest example of its kind in the West.

Sezincote was designed by Samuel Pepys Cockerell in a Neo-Mughal style and built in 1805. Curiously Cockerell had never visited India, and his only encounters with Indian architecture was through the medium of old engravings and drawings.
The poet John Betjeman used to visit whilst a student at Oxford, and captured Sezincote's charm in Summoned by Bells:
"Down the drive,
Under the early yellow leaves of oaks....
the bridge, the waterfall, the Temple Pool
and there they burst on us, the onion domes."

When the Prince Regent visited Sezincote in 1807, he was so impressed with the Neo-Mughal architecture seen, that he immediately changed his existing plans for the Royal Pavilion in Brighton to that of a similar design. 

The Orangery 

The Water Garden, the Indian Bridge, the Temple 
and the Pools are generally attributed to Daniell. However, the original gardens and landscape are thought to have been heavily influenced by Humphrey Repton who, while not producing one of his famous 'before' and 'after' Red Books for Sezincote, did produce a sketch of his ideas for the garden which still exists, and he mentions working at Sezincote in several of his writings.
Temple to Surya
The Indian Bridge


topped with bronze Brahmin Bull statuary along the parapet

Under the bridge are stepping stones and a seat where you can rest awhile. A small waterfall tumbles down into the Snake Pool, and a pathway leads you down to a gurgling stream and the pretty water gardens beyond.

Saffron worth its weight in gold

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Last year a small pot of prized Kashmiri saffron returned home in my luggage. Purple Crocus sativus, commonly known as saffron crocus or autumn crocus. It is the only flower of the crocus genus that yields these precious threads.

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As the sun rises in early November, the people of Pampore, a small town about 10 miles from Kashmir's summer capital, Srinagar, head out to the nearby purple draped valleys, their backdrop the foothills of the Himalayas. 
Saffron use originated in Greece, and is also cultivated in Iran and Spain, but the fragrant Kashmiri Mongra strain is the most prized.

After the flowers have been picked they are spread around on low tables where nimble fingered women pluck the three dark red stigmas from each flower. It takes 500 of these stigmas roughly 165 flowers to produce a single gram of saffron - it is this painstaking extraction process that pushes the price so high. Following this they are dried in the shade for five days and then subjected to a rigorous selection process that separates them into four grades: the ultra rare Shahi, then the first grade Mongra, which is what I purchased, followed by the second grade supermarket quality Lachha, and the sweepings, which are sold as Zarda.

 It is easy to tell the difference: Mongra consists of thick, glossy strands, almost the colour of dried blood, and there will be no yellow present as in cheaper grades

To use your saffron 

For 4 people take 125mg of Saffron, soak in 20ml of warm water or milk, stir well and leave for 30 minutes. Add to your recipe along with the soaked threads as they continue to release aroma, flavour and colour.

Kashmiri Kahwa

Flying to Kashmir from Dehli last year we were seated next to a man from Srinagar who urged us to taste their special tea known as Kawah. A small single cup of Kawah is said to lift the spirits, create a sense of wellbeing, energise, and dispel headaches. Kahwa is an anti-oxidant - some Kashmiris consider it to have magical properties.

Our first experience of Kawah was made for us by our lovely houseboy. We imbibed the tea whilst relaxing on our houseboat's veranda, and enjoying the views across Dal Lake towards the snow capped foothills of the Himalayas. It was indeed magical, but whether it was the view or the tea I could not say.

It is possible to make yourself some Kawah, all of the ingredients are readily available. I still have a small stash of Kawah which travelled back home in my suitcase. In Kashmir they obviously use green tea and saffron grown in their mountain valleys, but whatever you have to hand will suffice.

2 teaspoons of green tea leaves

2 cardamon pods slightly crushed

1 inch piece of cinnamon bark slightly crushed,

a little honey or sugar,
two or three threads of saffron, the colour and flavour is dissolved separately in a little water by crushing gently with a teaspoon,
4/5 almonds shredded or ground (optional)  

when in season Kashmiri rose petals are used

Boil 2 cups of water add cinnamon, cardamom and tea, boil for 3 minutes and then allow to infuse over low heat,

strain, then add the saffron liguid together with the threads 
a little sugar or honey

Top with almonds, serve hot 

The result is a delicate, spicey, fragrant flavour.

Mughals' Gardens in Srinagar & Tulips

Four Mughal Emperor gardens situated on the lower slopes of the Himalayan foothills, Kashmir

Shalimar was built by Emperor Jahangir for his wife Nur Jahan in 1619 - it is considered a high point in Mughal horticulture

A garden of waterways, fountains and marble pavilions with a Himalayan snow capped backdrop 

Nishat is a terraced garden built in 1633 by ruler Asif Khan with descending water courses running down to Dal Lake. The garden originally had 12 water terraces representing 12 zodiacal signs in keeping with the concepts of a Persian garden. Due to road building around Dal Lake the garden has now lost 3 of its original water terraces.

This garden with its wonderful water cascades enjoys  the Zabarwan Mountains as a backdrop

and views down to Dal Lake

Two million tulips adorn the Kashmiri landscape at an altitude of 5600 feet for two weeks each April - Asia's largest tulip festival

Chashma Shahi is the smallest of the Mughal gardens and was commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan for his eldest son, Dara Sikoh. If you have read my other posts you may recall that Shah Jahan was the Emperor who built the Taj Mahal, and was detained by one of his sons in the Red Fort at Agra

This garden is higher up in the Zabarwan Mountains

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This little pavilion sits over a spring which supplies all of the water to the garden and is the source of its name - Chashma Shahi translates as Royal Spring

Pari Mahal meaning 'Fairies Abode' is the highest mountain garden with terraces and magnificent views. It was commissioned by the Emperor's eldest son Dara Sikoh in 1650, the owner of the previous garden. He followed the Qadiri order of Sufi Islam and had this garden made for his tutor who used it as an observatory for teaching astronomy.

Being so high up on the slopes of the Zabarwan Mountains my little camera could not cope with the views across Dal Lake to the snowcapped Himalayas - I definitely need a new camera

I took few photographs in this garden as I was waylaid by this lovely lady and her family.  We spent time talking, and ended up photographing each other.

It is in this garden that I finally discovered the story surrounding Emperor Shah Jahan's detention by his son at the Red Fort in Agra.

The Emperor's eldest son, Dara Sikoh, was an intellectual who patronised the fine arts, music and dancing. He was seen as a heretic in the eyes of his younger orthodox brother Aurangzeb who detained his father, the Emperor Shah Jahan, in the Red Fort. Aurangzeb had his brother Dara murdered leaving the way clear for him to ascend the throne following his father's death.  It is now widely acknowledged that Aurangzeb was responsible for the eventual downfall of the Mughal Empire.

It is time to shut the door on India, not completely, I'm leaving it ajar in case I return one day! I do regret that I did not purchase myself one of the exquisite handwoven Kashmir shawls. Given another opportunity, a shawl will definitely return home with me! 

I have just been reading The Kashmir Shawl which features Dal Lake, Srinagar, and a houseboat similar to the one we stayed on - it is a good read  

Since writing this post I have treated myself to a new camera