Claydon, Buckinghamshire

Built in the middle of the C18th, Claydon is now little more than a shadow of its former self. Sir Ralph Verney's intention was that his home should rival that of his neighbour, Sir Richard Temple, who built the internationally renowned Stowe House 

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Although never entirely finished Claydon was a very impressive building complete with a domed rotunda, state rooms and a vast ballroom. 

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Model showing all that remains of Claydon

The interior of the house was adorned extravagantly with wooden carved Rococo decorations. However, Sir Ralph ran into severe financial problems and was forced to sell most of Claydons contents. He spent the final years of his life on the continent to escape his creditors. Following his death in 1792 his estate was inherited by his niece Mary Verney (later created Baroness Fermanagh). She was an extremely frugal women and had two-thirds of the house demolished which included the central domed rotunda and the ballroom leaving the house much as it appears today.

Arriving early before the house had opened we took a walk along the Ha Ha to the church

The small chancel has an attractive barrel vaulted ceiling

Later it was possible to photograph the exterior of the chancel through a window inside Claydon House

The south wall of the chancel is completely filled by this large monument which Sir Ralph Verney erected to the memory of his father, Sir Edmund Verney, Standard Bearer to Charles l, who was killed at the battle of Edge Hill in 1642

A small detail from a large brass memorial, dated 1543, showing a knight in armour, Roger Gifford, builder of the barrel-vaulted chancel and first holder of the lease at Claydon - he had 13 sons and 7 daughters 

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Stepping inside Claydon's North Hall reveals just how Sir Ralph set out to create a country house of extraordinary grandeur, one in which he wished to dazzle his wealthy neighbours and outdo his political rivals. Today Claydon's interiors are considered to be amongst the most ambitious and lavish ever created during the C18th - a Georgian masterpiece of Rococo decoration

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Sir Ralph employed the brilliant and talented stonemason and carver Luke Lightfoot who for ten years used his skills to make impressive carvings. However, he was not trustworthy and swindled away a lot of Sir Ralph's money before being eventually dismissed. Above is shown a Hoho bird, a mythical creature, an Asian version of the Phoenix. The Hoho is said to bring both good luck and good fortune, which in Sir Ralph's case proved to be the opposite resulting in loss of fortune and his eventual demise.

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Along with the Hoho bird many Swans also feature in Lightfoot's carvings - dating back to the Anglo-saxon period, swans were bred in Buckinghamshire for the King's pleasure. 

Although Lightfoot's work appears to resemble plasterwork, it is all carved from wood then painted white. It is thought that he used pine which comes in many different shades and discolours over time. The paint has, therefore, helped to preserve it so that we can still enjoy Lightfoot's amazing skill and craftsmanship today

When Lightfoot was dismissed Sir Ralph employed Robert Adam's favourite stuccoist, Joseph Rose, whose plasterwork can be seen here in the Saloon. It displays exquisite geometrical detail with a frieze made of papier mâché all done in the neoclassical style.

Claydon's staircase is so precious and rare that nobody is allowed to walk on it. There is no stairway in England its equal - the curator likens it to walking on Chippendale furniture

The steps are mahogany inlaid with box, ebony and ivory. The ironwork balusters are of equal delicacy with swirling vegetation so final wrought that it was said to 'sing' with passing movement when the stairs were in use

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Upstairs can be found Lightfoot's masterpiece - the Chinoiserie Room classed as one the most original designs from the C18th anywhere. Elaborate pagodas sit above the doorways, Chinese faces peer from the woodwork, there is a riot of swirling foliage, temples, bells and birds. The focus of the room is the large alcove ornately carved with a golden divan sitting within

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 On the back wall is a relief of a Chinese tea ceremony  with two mandarins apparently inviting one to join them for tea!

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In the C19th Sir Harry Verney married Parthenope the eldest sister of Florence Nightingale. Florence was always made very welcome at Claydon where she was given rooms so that she could work quietly and meet important people whenever she wished to leave her house in London. She became the favourite aunt of the children of Edmund Verney (Sir Harry's eldest son); Edmund had served as a naval officer in the Crimea. When he lost part of his foot in a shooting accident at Claydon House, he looked at the picture of Florence in his bedroom and said it gave him courage to bear the pain.