Palace of the Peak

If the weather was fine and father did not have a golfing fixture, mother would pack the picnic hamper, strap it to the back of the family car, and off we would go for a day out in the Derbyshire dales.

A Morris Ten resembling my fathers vehicle and painted in the same coachwork colours of black and British Racing Green. Our car was already old by todays standards when father purchased it to replace a smaller Morris car. I recall its dark green shiny ribbed leather seats, a front window that could open forwards on hot days, and funny orange 'trafficators' which popped out from either side when we turned left or right. 

As we drove up hill and down dale my siblings and I would sing.  We would bounce up and down in unison across the back seat whenever a steep incline was reached in an effort to encourage the old car up the hills. 

Trundling along the roads I would notice the lodge gates and long driveways to the many fine Derbyshire country houses, but none equalled the spectacular view of Chatsworth House nestling in its unrivalled Derwent Valley location. During my childhood Chatsworth was not open to the public, but whenever I return for a trip down memory lane those tantalising first glimpses are rekindled.

Welcome to the Palace of the Peak

Sir Wm Cavendish and his wife Elizabeth, better known to us today as Bess of Hardwick, bought the land where Chatsworth stands in 1549 for £600. Despite what was then an isolated moorland location, they started to build a new house, however, almost nothing of that original Elizabethan building remains. The Chatsworth House we see today was built in the architectural English Baroque/Italianate style which was completed in 1696. The current owner is the 12th Duke of Devonshire.

The Painted Hall with its impressive stairway which

sits beneath a ceiling painted by the French artist Louis Laguerre between 1692-94 for the 1st Duke of Devonshire. He began working at Chatsworth as assistant to Antonio Verrio, the Italian artist, who painted Chatsworth's ceilings above the Great Stairs and in the Great Chamber.

The Dukes have always been great patrons of the arts which continues today. In the chapel beneath a further ceiling painted by Laguerre sits the grand altar made out of Derbyshire Alabaster.

Standing resplendent in gold at eight-foot high is Damien Hirst's Saint Bartholomew entitled 'Exquisite Pain' -  This is part of a temporary sculpture exhibition taking place in and around Chatsworth until mid October

This staircase was a design revelation to visitors in the 1690s, its cantilevered steps appearing to hang in the air. 

Staircase ceiling painted by Antonio Verrio

An elaborate display in the Great Chamber showing off some Delft and silver gilt ware along with a fine pair of Delft tulip vases - Tulip vases are the legacy of 'Tulip Mania' which swept through Holland and into Europe during the 1630s

Antonio Verrio painted the ceiling in the Great Chamber. It depicts the Return of the Golden Age, representing the new reign of William and Mary, and shows the Virtues  conquering the Vices of ancient mythology. Whilst at Chatsworth Verio argued with the lst Duke's housekeeper, Mrs Hackett, so much so that he included her in the ceiling as one of the Vices

Mrs Hackett forever floating on the Great Chamber ceiling painted as one of the three Fates, Atropos, cutting the thread of life with her much 'abhorred shears'.

Trompe l'oeil (deceives the eye) painting of a violin in the State Music Room painted by Jan van der Vaart in the 1700s. The painting is on a real door, and the knob on which the violin seems to hang is also real, both of which help the illusion 

Portrait of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire by Thomas Gainsborough

I am showing this piece of furniture by William Kent because I mentioned him in a recent post about Rousham. Devonshire House, the family home in London was destroyed by fire in 1733 and the 3rd Duke commissioned William Kent to design a new house, both inside and out, as well as new furniture, much of which is still in the collection at Chatsworth today.

A myriad of colours reflected in one of the crystal chandeliers at Chatsworth

The Acheson Sisters - John Singer Sargent

This painting was commissioned by Louisa, Duchess of Devonshire, wife of the 8th Duke, and grandmother to the girls; the three sisters were frequent visitors at Chatsworth. Sargent visited Chatsworth to discuss the commission during the winter of 1901-02. 

Veiled Vesta - sculptured by Raffaella Monti, 1848

The Chatsworth Tazza

One of the largest objects made from one piece of Derbyshire fluorspar 'Blue John'

Reaching the end of the house visit, the 6th Duke's Sculpture Gallery awaits. He had it built to display his very large collection of classically inspired sculptures, including several by Antonio Canova

Two Crouching Lions by Francesco Benaglia (after Canova) guarding the exit leading to the gardens - one has decided to take a nap!

Next visit - the gardens

Bravo Chatsworth - no restrictions are placed on photographers - you can even use flash if you wish