Thursday 12 September 2019

Ashdown House

is often referred to as "the house built for the love of a woman who never lived to see it." 
Sir William Craven, 1st Earl of Craven, built this Dutch style property during the second half of the 17th century. It sits alone on the Berkshire Downs and gives the appearance of a rather elegant dolls house. However, it wasn't actually built to be a home, but a rather splendid country Hunting Lodge. It was designed by soldier/architect, Captain William Winde, who was born in 1640 to English parents resident in Holland at the time. 
Lord Craven via wiki 
Unauthenticated history speaks of Lord Craven's great admiration for Elizabeth, the Queen of Bohemia, and that he built this remote hunting lodge as a retreat for her. 
Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia via wiki
But who was Elizabeth? ........
She was the daughter of James l of England, and sister of Charles l, who was married to Frederick, the Elector Palatine. They had 13 children, but their reign as King and Queen of Bohemia lasted for just one winter during 1619 - 1620. Frederick was defeated at the battle of White Mountain then he and the family were exiled to the Hague by the Holy Roman Emperor, Ferdinand ll. Henceforth Elizabeth became known as the Winter Queen. 
Her youngest daughter Sophia married the future Elector of Hanover in 1658 and their son became King George l of England.
 
Electress Sophia painted as an American Indian by her sister Louise Hollandine of the Palatinate - a talented portrait painter  wiki
Electress Sophia's son - King George l wiki
Lord Craven first met Elizabeth in the Hague when he was a young soldier. It was then that he fell in love and devoted his service to her. Following the death of Elizabeth's husband, Frederick, of a 'pestilential fever', Craven provided Elizabeth with financial support. He paid her the pension that she was supposed to receive from the English crown.
Following the Restoration in 1660 Elizabeth returned home from the Hague and Craven put his London house in Drury Lane at her disposal.
Lord Craven was very concerned about the plague in London and wanted to build Elizabeth a mini palace in the country away from all of the germs. Knowing her love of hunting, he chose Ashdown, but sadly this is not a happy ever after love story. Just before the hunting lodge was completed in 1662 Elizabeth died of pneumonia. Lord Craven never married, but went on to live for a further 35 years, reaching the grand age of 89. When Elizabeth died she bequeathed Lord Craven all of her papers, hunting trophies and a large collection of remarkable family portraits. All of her collection of portraits originally adorned Lord Craven's seat at Combe Abbey and then his property at Hampstead Marshall.  
Years after the death of Lord Craven, 23 of Elizabeth's portraits were received from the estate in lieu of taxes, and it is these paintings that now hang on the walls of Ashdown House. The property is now in the care of The National Trust, 
but has been tenanted on a long term basis so only the long cantilevered staircase, where all of the portraits hang, is open to the public. 
Princess Elizabeth, Princess Royal and Princess Palatine, Abbess of Hervorden (Hertford)
Of the 23 portraits that once belonged to Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia my favourite is this one, which shows her third child, and first born daughter, whom she also named Elizabeth.
On the landings are carved wooden heads resembling favoured family stags which actually incorporate the real antlers of the particular stag. During the mid 17th century taxidermy was crude and still in its infancy, and had not become established as a practice. 
When the flight of stairs have been climbed there is a steep spiral wooden stairway to negotiate that passes through an attractive glass cupola before heading out on to the rooftop. 
The roof was used like a small grandstand to provide non-hunting guests with a 360° view of all the hunting and racing activities.  
On either side of the lodge at the rear are two identical buildings - the one that can be seen housed the kitchens where all of the food was prepared for the guests, and the other building housed a large stable for the horses.

35 comments:

  1. How beautiful! Such love and devotion is so wonderful to read about. I love the view from the rooftop cupola. What beautiful portraits; Princess Elizabeth was a very pretty girl. I'm not much up on the history of our kings and queens, but I know the royal families of Europe are all related. Thank you for the lovely tour. Best, Jane x

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    1. There are beautiful views all around from the top of the building which stretch across to the Downs, and over the grounds and woodlands, which are apparently full of bluebells come the Spring.

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  2. What a beautiful story with stunning photo's you made for us!

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  3. Ha ha! I spent several months restoring Ashdown House with Nimbus Conservation in the 1980s. The bulk of the stone is Totternhoe Clunch which is a soft chalk normally used to make Portland cement. Although it is very soft, it is very tight and also very abrasive due to the silica in it. It took ages to saw through one piece, and then you had to sharpen the saw almost every time. I spent months sawing up small bits for the facade, all cut from large single block, just like the old days.

    For some reason, the N.T. decided to completely replace the wooden balustrade on the top, so threw the perfectly good oak balusters in a skip. I tried to salvage as many as I could by stuffing them into my Volvo estate, but by the time I went back a second time the skip had gone. What a waste.

    I gave the balusters to a friend of mine who was later diagnosed with terminal cancer. He had enough time to make his own coffin and he decorated the sides of it with the Ashdown balusters, split in half and stuck to the sides, with wonderful floral painting weaving in and out. It was the most beautiful coffin I have ever seen. That too was burned.

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    1. Thanks for your interesting story re: the restoration Tom, and the oak too that you rescued and gave to your friend which became part of his coffin!
      I understand that the stone dressings around the windows are all made of Bath stone.

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    2. Oh are they? I'm not sure I remember working on Bath. The Clunch must have driven it from my memory. I love your photos and I love your accounts.

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    3. That is extremely kind Tom - thank you.

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    4. BTW the house was, of course, a hunting lodge in essence. The mile-long drive at the rear was designed so the deer could be driven out of the woods and eventually killed on the back doorstep, to be butchered and cooked in the house with minimum air-miles. Their favourite deer on the plaques were their favourite chases and meals. I'm all for it.

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    5. Hello Tom S. and Rosemary, Yes, it is true that so much original material is discarded in restorations. I am sure that much of it could be sold for use in other buildings, or as souvenirs to fund some of the restoration costs. I once got some Federal-era wrought iron brackets that were being discarded when a house in New Haven was having its gutters repaired. --Jim

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    6. There is so much more awareness now than there was in the 1980s, but there must still be chances of finding little treasures in building skips from time to time. Sometimes interesting things turn up on the antique programmes.

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  4. What a beautiful home, and thank you for sharing it's history. The people who were involved come alive with those excellent portraits. I'm glad that this home is being used, both for tenants as well as public visits I'd love to stand on that roof to see those views! And thanks, Tom, who commented with his interesting story about the Ashedown House restoration too!

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    1. The rooftop gives spectacular overall views across all the surrounding area.
      I enjoyed the portraits which all seemed very lifelike and as you mention brought the people involved to life.
      I understand that the current tenant is Peter Townshend who was "The Who’s" guitarist and principal songwriter.

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  5. What a beautifully maintained building with immaculate garden and surrounds, but such a sad love story. Your photos of the wonderful portraits are so clear. Like actually viewing them.
    Thank you for sharing these and the very interesting history of Elizabeth's family and the dedicated Lord Craven.

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    1. It is a sad story, I agree. What a great love he must have had for her having loved and admired her from afar as a young soldier, and then for her to die within months after her return back to England following the Reformation.

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  6. I can always count on our blog for interesting and little known pieces of history.

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    1. That is such a lovely comment for which I thank you very much.

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  7. Quite a story, and what a beautiful place!

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    1. Glad you enjoyed seeing this beautiful building and hearing the story too.

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  8. Wonderful story, building and views. Thank you, Rosemary.

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    1. The story of Lord Craven and the Winter Queen captivated me, and it appears to have done the same to several readers too. Glad that you enjoyed it Susan.

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  9. The cracking rooftop views would explain the extra height as my first impression was it looked too tall and narrow for a building of that type. No 'golden ratio' effect on the senses, for me anyway. A sad tale but a worthy lasting tribute.

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    1. You may have observed that this story does fundamentally appeal to one side more than the other! But how right you are, it does have 'cracking rooftop views'.

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  10. This is fascinating history, what a grand home/hunting lodge and how intriguing that the man never married. I wonder if any novels have been written about his great love and protection for her.

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    1. I didn't actually think to look and find out if there was a book written about Lord Craven's admiration and love for the Winter Queen, but I have checked now, and there is:-
      Knight Errant: Lord Craven and the Court of the Winter Queen
      by Robert Haig
      I will get a copy of it myself - it is on Amazon.

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  11. Hello Rosemary, A remarkable house with an interesting history. It is quite handsome, although I find te proportions a bit odd. I love the wooden deer heads!
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim - the proportions of the hunting lodge are those used during the 17th century in Holland. It possibly reflects the fact that the Winter Queen lived in Holland for much of her life, and it is also where the English architect, who designed Ashdown, was born and raised too.

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  12. Rosemary, I'm always so proud of my country when you share such beautiful buildings and country estates such as this one. The just formal enough gardens, the woodland beyond, and then the Downs
    The portraits are amazing, such detail!
    That is quite a story.

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    1. I am not usually a fan of 17th century portraits, but I also thought these were particularly lovely. Glad you enjoyed seeing this beautiful building which catches your breath when you first glimpse it on arrival.

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  13. Rosemary, this is such an interesting post - the beautiful house, the sad love story, and then Tom's additional comments. It leaves me wanting to learn more about Elizabeth, the Winter Queen. I'll look up the book you mentioned in a comment reply. The staircase is full of light and would be a wonderful place to examine the portraits of people who lived long ago, but who shared the same emotions as we do today.

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    1. I am so pleased that you enjoyed seeing this lovely property and also learning a little about the Winter Queen and Lord Craven. I have actually ordered the book now, the synopsis is very interesting. I managed to get a half priced deal on a new book from someone on Amazon. I am now looking forward to receiving it and hopefully enjoying a good read.

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  14. Love the clean lines of this grand building and the formal garden that goes perfectly with it. And a beautiful love story too , even though sad.

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    1. Thank you Jane - its a great story of what appears to have been true love.

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  15. Fantastic photos!

    Elizabeth must have been the best connected woman in the world. She was the daughter of King James l, and sister of King Charles l! She married Frederick, the Elector Palatine (and exiled to the Hague). But the best part was Elizabeth's youngest daughter Sophia married the future Elector of Hanover in 1658 and their son became King George l of England! Nobody would have expected that!

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    1. Elizabeth's life has many intriguing aspects to it - this is just a small snippet. I am hoping to find out much more about her when I receive Robert Haig's book - Knight Errant: Lord Craven and the Court of the Winter Queen.

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