Showing posts with label Cappadocia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cappadocia. Show all posts

Friday, 26 May 2017

The 9,000 year old town of Matera

I have known about Matera for a long time, but when Andrew Graham-Dixon, Art Historian, and Italian chef Giorgio Locatelli went there for their TV programme 'Italy Unpacked' I decided that it was somewhere that I too would like to visit.  
The settlement goes back to palaeolithic times and occupies a picturesque location on rocks above a deep gorge. 
The town has featured in several biblical films - King David with Richard Gere, Mel Gibson's Passion of Christ, Catherine Hardwicke's The Nativity Story, Timur Bekmambetov's Ben Hur - the architecture and dramatic landscape in the gorge create the perfect backdrop.
Matera declined in influence under the Greeks, and was destroyed by the Franks in 867, but it was rebuilt in the early c11th under the rule of Byzantium. An interesting fact for us was that during the c6th followers of Saint Basil, the Bishop of Caesarea and Cappadocia arrived in Matera fleeing from iconoclastic persecutions. They bought with them Greek religious rites and a community life that revolved around living in underground caves in a very similar manner to their previous existence in Cappadocia, Asia Minor, now Turkey.
The town consists of an attractive upper district and the silent lower Sassi (cave) district where people once occupied dwellings scooped out of the soft rock. Some of 130 rock churches were eventually occupied during the c15th by local people. Even up until the 1960s families of 8 or 10 together with their animals were still living in cave homes without any sanitation.
In his memoire 'Christ stopped at Eboli', Carlo Levi drew attention to the living conditions of the people of Matera, comparing the Sassi (cave) district to Dante's Inferno.
Matera has been continuously inhabited for over 9,000 years exceeded only by Aleppo and Jericho.
Four hundred years ago everyone in Matera, rich and poor, peasants and aristocrats, all lived in caves. 
The rich had grand facades, fashionable porticos, and ornate doorways which led into cavernous rooms hollowed out from the rocks
By the 18th century, the middle classes were moving out to build a new “upper” town of elegant palaces and piazzas. 
The façade of one of Matera's churches, San Francesca, pays understated homage to 'Lecce Baroque'.
The city of Lecce - the Florence of the south, gives its name to what is called 'Barocco leccese'. It is unlike baroque seen anywhere else being exhuberant, fun, covered in putti, flowers, symbols and lots of hiddden messages - a visit to Lecce will be forthcoming
As the day draws to a close, and we drive onwards to our next destination, we take a final look back from the far side of the gorge to Matera's cathedral - a splendid c13th Apulian Romanesque style building dedicated to the Madonna della Bruna and St. Eustace.

Friday, 30 October 2015

November Sojourn

Aphrodisias

The Celsus Library at Ephesus built between A.D. 100 and 110 by Gaius Iulius Aquila for his father, the senator Tiberius Iulius Celsus Polemaeanus.
Now that November is almost here it's time for us to take our leave. We look forward to renewing our acquaintance with one of the great cities of the world. Like Alexander the Great before us, our travels will then take us to a place known from Classical sources as Asia Minor - the setting for a legend described in Homer's Iliad and the scene of a ten year long war. We shall visit a recently excavated ancient city where the last of St.John, the Apostle, sent is seventh of the seven letters - Revelations lll: 14 - 22 which includes "Behold, I stand at the door and knock". 
Cappadocia 
via
Pamukkale
I wonder if we will discover anymore surreal landscapes?

From past experience, November is a lovely month
  the sunshine helps foreshorten our British winter and
we have always enjoyed delicious food together with a gracious welcome

Tuesday, 2 December 2014

Surreal Landscapes

Do you remember the surreal landscape I showed last November following our trip to Cappadocia in central Turkey?
Would we discover another one this year?
We did 
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In Pamukkale
Could it be possible that we had snow and ice in Turkey even though the skies were blue and the temperature was hot? 
Travertine terraces of crystalline pools
Pamukkale is a UNESCO World Heritage Site situated near the foothills of the Taurus Mountains. Deep underground beneath what was once the ancient Roman City of Hierapolis lies a vast source of water heated by volcanic lava. 
Gleaming white petrified waterfalls, and a series of travertine terraced basins straddle the plateau, and run down the hillsides of Pamukkale.  Created over more than two millennia the hot mineral cascades transform calcium carbonate into travertine.
via
People have bathed in these warm pools of water for thousands of years - a perfect spot to slip off your shoes and enjoy splashing around in the mineral rich waters at anytime of day or night   
Pamukkale resembles winter all year round, but the skies are blue and the temperatures high

Sunday, 8 December 2013

Salutations Turkey

Turkey is known around the world for it's naturally dyed, hand knotted carpets. They also make the most exquisite rugs from pure silk.
 
On the whole UK cats tend to be territorial, solitary animals. In Turkey they all huddle up together, play, sleep and wash each other in groups. That is because mostly they are not pets but are looked after by everyone. I saw a man with a tray of food and as soon as he appeared about 50 cats quickly surrounded him from under bushes, up trees, and behind buildings. It is the same with dogs, which often wander around in pairs. They are all rounded up from time to time, taken to the vets for their various vaccinations and checks then released.
Early morning and protection from the 'evil eye' is evident in Cappadocia
The Turkish Delight bears no resemblance to that in the UK. It is slightly chewy, not so sweet, and made in lots of wonderful flavours, often including various types of nut. The above is a pomegranate flavour with hazelnuts and then dusted with coconut.
Before breakfast one day we heard a loud siren - it was 75 years following the death of Atatürk, the highly respected founder of modern Turkey.
Sunday morning in Avanos, a town famed for both carpets and pottery
The Greeks were successful traders, merchants, and artisans in Turkey even before the Romans and had a huge influence on the development of the country. You can recognise the Greek Patrician houses by their arches and carved stonework. 
A "caravanserai" - a medieval hostelry guaranteeing a safe night's rest for both merchants and beasts. These were built every 30 kilometres along the Silk Road in Turkey which represented a days ride. 
Very early in the morning on most days hot air balloons take to the air in the valleys of Cappadocia. This video can be made full screen.
A farewell sunset over the Mediterranean sea